March 2011


Torrontés is a grape grown widely in Argentina, with 33,000 acres planted between Torrontés Riojano and Torrontés Sanjuanino. Together with my favorite named Torrontés grape, Torrontés Mendocino, Torrontés are crossings of Mission and Muscat of Alexandria, or Muscat of Alexandria and an as yet unidentified grape.

When you hear Torrontés from Argentina, think Zinfandel from California. Both are grapes that grow well in their respective places, both make delicious wines, both have large cult followings, but neither gets the respect they are due.

Just as California winemakers can point to pre-prohibition century old vine field blend Zinfandels and appropriately call Zinfandel “California’s wine,” while the public searches instead for California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay; so too can Argentine winemakers point to the Torrontés grapes brought by Spanish missionaries and colonists when describing Torrontés wines as Argentina’s wine, while consumers seek out Argentine Malbec and Bonarda instead.

More than any other wine, Torrontés is Argentina’s wine.

Torrontés makes for Argentina’s most unique white wines, typically possessing a yellowish green color, and spicy floral aromas.

Torrontés plantings are mostly found in La Rioja, Salta, Mendoza, Catamarca, Rio Negro and San Juan.

Recently, I tasted my first Torrontés, Concha y Toro’s Trivento Tribu 2009 Torrontés from Rivadavia, Mendoza in Argentina. Grown in the shadow of snow covered mountain peaks, a gift from a friend, the 2009 Trivento Tribu Torrontés Mendoza Argentina $9 is a lovely shade of yellow with a floral citrusy nose of rose and tangerine, and a fresh, medium light bodied, nice lightly acidic/sweet balanced burst of earthy tropical, orange, apricot and peach stone fruit. Really delicious. seriously drinkable. Amazing QPR (quality/price ratio), this wine costs little and tastes great.

Not the easiest varietal to find, but go to a real wine shop and ask the owner to point you toward the Argentine Torrontés, or have him order you some.

I paired the Torrontés with shell fish, steamed mussels and clams, and used the Torrontés in the pot in place of water for the steaming. So good, one of those makes-you-shudder moments. I would also pair this with any nice white fish, or chicken, or pasta, or how about nothing.

While the 2009 Trivento Tribu Torrontés Mendoza Argentina pairs brilliantly with food, it would also go over well just poured into glasses for a gathering of friends.

Cheers to the folks in Argentina who make Torrontés, a delicious new wine find for me, but a wine as much a part of their heritage as Zinfandel is for me and California’s wine industry.

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Writing about a Concha y Toro wine and mentioning the Torrontés Mendocino grape is almost wine blogger’s foreplay.

The big news here in Mendocino County this week is that Fetzer Vineyards, the county’s largest winery with annual sales of 2.2 million cases, has been sold by spirits powerhouse Brown-Forman of Louisville, KY to Concha y Toro, the Chilean wine company with the aim of being “a leading global branded wine company.”

The $238 million purchase, which includes Bonterra, the largest premium organic winery in the US, Five Rivers, Jekel and Sanctuary wine brands, goes a long way to increasing Concha y Toro’s visibility on the global wine scene.

My scheduled tour of Fetzer Vineyards with Ann Thrupp, the Manager of Sustainability and Organic Development for both Fetzer and Bonterra Vineyards in Hopland, was cancelled this morning, awaiting a rescheduling by Ann, due to busyness around the winery owing to the transition.

Ann echoes the universal sentiment surrounding Concha y Toro’s acquisition, “it’s good news…we are all very optimistic. It’s an excellent company, committed to wine.”

It is hopeful that with the purchase of Fetzer by a winecentric company, Concha y Toro, the wish of all at Fetzer Vineyards for a Hopland tasting room will become a reality again sooner than later.

DISCLOSURE: As a promotion to boost awareness of Argentina’s wines, the folks at Wines of Argentina contacted me, and a bunch of other wine bloggers and asked them to write about their wines. This month it was to be an article on Torrantes, with different topics being explored each month – say Malbec, the influence of the Spanish or Italian, a look at San Juan vs Mendoza, whatever. Each month the Wines of Argentina folks choose their favorite piece, winners from 6 or more months will be judged once again, and one blogger will earn a trip to Argentina to taste wines. I acknowledge that there is an element of shill-iness about it all, but my piece was an honest review of a recently tasted wine that I didn’t write up and I tied it back to California, Mendocino County, and an individual local winery before I was finished – so if I’m to be judged a whore, I would like you to consider me a playful whore who would enjoy pairing the cuisine of Argentina’s Cuyo region with the wines of San Luis and San Juan.

Today’s biggest wine news in Mendocino County comes from way down south. Here’s a link to what will be the big news talked about by folks in the industry, directly from the people making the news:

VIÑA CONCHA Y TORO AGREES TO ACQUIRE FETZER VINEYARDS FROM BROWN-FORMAN, EXPANDING ITS OPERATIONS TO CALIFORNIA

01 March, 2011

 

Santiago, Chile, March 1, 2011 – Viña Concha y Toro S.A. (NYSE: VCO) and Brown-Forman Corporation (NYSE: BFA, BFB) announced today the acquisition by Viña Concha y Toro of Fetzer Vineyards and related assets from Brown-Forman in California.  The purchase price for the transaction is US$ 238 million.  The transaction is expected to close in April 2011, subject to regulatory and other customary closing conditions.

The acquisition includes a portfolio of brands with attractive positioning in the American wine market including: Fetzer, Bonterra, Five Rivers, Jekel, Sanctuary and Little Black Dress.  For fiscal 2010, the acquired brands represented volumes of 3.1 million cases and net sales of US$156 million; Concha y Toro also acquires assets including mainly: 429 hectares of vineyards owned and leased in Mendocino County, California; cellars with capacities of 36 million liters (Hopland, California) and 6 million liters (Paso Robles, California) and a bottling facility. The key facilities are located in Hopland, California and employ approximately 240 people.

Fetzer is one of the top ten brands by volume in the U.S. market with sales of 2.2 million cases annually.  Fetzer is also a pioneer in the development of sustainable practices and recognized as an environmental leader, a commitment that has been a hallmark of the brand for the last 20 years.  Bonterra is the undisputed leader in the premium organic category and pioneered the development of vineyards in this category since 1987.  With sales of 300 thousand cases annually, Bonterra is more than three times the size of its nearest organic competitor.

Eduardo Guilisasti, Chief Executive Officer of Viña Concha y Toro said: “The Fetzer acquisition is the largest transaction of this type in the company’s history.  It represents a continuation of our business strategy, which has been carried out successfully over time and enabled us to enjoy steady growth.  We believe that this transaction opens additional growth opportunities globally, as well as in the American market, with its main brands Fetzer and Bonterra.  We further intend to incorporate the culture of excellence and commitment of the great team at Fetzer who have created exceptionally strong consumer brands”.

Paul Varga, Chief Executive Officer of Brown-Forman said, “Fetzer and Bonterra have been wonderful brands for Brown-Forman over the years, but as our company has grown globally and our portfolio strategy has evolved, we believe refocusing our resources on what we deem to be our best opportunities for strong growth will provide superior shareholder returns over the long term.  And we are particularly pleased that such a prestigious wine company as Viña Concha y Toro will continue the legacy of success these brands have enjoyed over the last several decades”.

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Last week, I scheduled a tour, picture taking opportunity, and tasting at Fetzer Vineyards for this coming Thursday, and look forward to writing more later this week.

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